How to Fix a Washing Machine That Wont Spin

Photo via Ann @ Duct Tape and Denim

Problem: Overstuffed or Unbalanced Drum

Ultra-stuffed loads of laundry and extra-bulky loads (blankets, comforters, pet beds, pillows) result in damage to your washing machine over time. If your otherwise-functioning washing machine stops spinning mid-cycle, it’s very likely because the drum is overstuffed.

To fix, open the washer and remove or rearrange soggy garments to reduce the bulk of the load to a normal wash size or rebalance the bulky items as best possible. Depending on your washer, you might have to wait until the cycle ends for the door to unlock before reducing or rebalancing the wash load. Then run through again.

Problem: Too Much Detergent

Some washing machines—especially newer machines, such as HE (high efficiency) models—will stop their wash cycles if the machine’s sensors detect that there’s too much excess foam in the drum, which is the result of too much laundry detergent in the load.

If your load stopped because there’s too much foam, pour a fabric softener (about a cap full) into the machine’s dispenser drawer and flush it down with cold water. This should suppress the foam.

For future loads, double-check instructions on your detergent for how much should be added per load size, as well as the manufacturer’s guidelines for your model of washing machine, to make sure you’re adding no more than the recommended dose.

Problem: Machine Is Unbalanced

If your top-loading washing machine makes quite a racket with every cycle by shaking back and forth or vibrating, there’s a good chance that the machine itself is unbalanced. This can also cause the barrel to go off-kilter and lose its spinning ability.

Thankfully, fixing a washer that won’t spin because it’s on uneven footing is a fairly quick job, requiring only a few basic tools. Top-load washers sit on four legs, kind of like a table. Place your hands on opposite corners of the machine and rock it back and forth to determine which leg is the uneven one. Use a wrench to adjust the leg in question, turning the leg clockwise to raise the washer and counterclockwise to lower the washer. Test the machine’s level as you tighten or loosen the leg; it may take some trial and error.

Problem: Electrical Surge

Has your area experienced any severe weather lately? What about local power outages? In newer machines, internal technology drives much of the washing machine’s operation, which makes it that much more susceptible to go on the fritz because of an electrical issue. Try the age-old IT advice of turning off your device and restarting, which in washing machine speak means unplug your machine, wait a minute or two, and plug it in again.

Problem: Faulty Lid Switch or Door Lock

As a safety feature, many washing machines won’t start the wash cycle or spin until the door locks (front-loading washers) or the lid switch is secured (top-loading washers). Many newer washers have an indicator light that illuminates when the door or lid is locked; double-check to see if the indicator is on/off, or if any other error indicators have illuminated. In both front-loading and top-loading washers, a hatch can become skewed over time.

Before attempting to fix the lid hatch or door look yourself, it’s important that you turn your machine’s power off and unplug it. The hatch likely has an electric current running through it, which is what is activating the error indicator on the machine.

For top-loading washers, locate the lid switch underneath the lid towards the front of the machine and check the connection it has to the latch. If the switch is visibly bent, try gently straightening with your fingers. If that doesn’t work, then the latch needs to be replaced.

On front-loading washing machines, the door lock will be on the opposite side of the door’s hinge. Unfortunately, there’s no way to really fix this without replacing the entire door lock. Learn how to here.